Charyn Canyon

The Charyn river rises in the Tian Shan near the Chinese border and cuts through the semi-desert plateau east of Almaty in a canyon about 150 km long. Over millions of years wind and water have carved its soft sedimentary rocks into walls, pillars and pinnacles of red, orange and ochre, in places 150 to 300 metres deep. The area is protected as the Charyn State National Park, created in 2004. It is often called a small Grand Canyon, which says more about its colours than its size, but it is a superb landscape in its own right.

The Valley of Castles

Most visitors come to the Valley of Castles, a side gorge whose eroded towers look like ruined fortresses. A wide, gently descending track runs about 2–3 km along its floor between the walls to the Charyn river, where there is a small eco-camp with a café and cabins under the trees. Viewpoints on the rim near the car park give the classic panorama over the gorge.

Beyond the castles

Other sections, such as the Yellow Canyon and the Moon Canyon, are reached by rougher tracks and are much quieter. On the way, many tours stop at the Charyn ash grove, a relict forest of Sogdian ash trees in the river valley that has survived since the Ice Age.

How to experience it

Charyn is about 200 km from Almaty, three hours by road, and is usually combined with the Kolsai and Kaindy lakes, either in one very long day or, better, with a night in the village of Saty. Walk down in the morning or late afternoon, when the light is softest and the canyon is cooler; summer middays are hot and shadeless. Wear good shoes and carry water. The walk back up is gentle but steady.