Kyzylkum Yurt Camps

Between Nurata and Lake Aydarkul, several camps of felt yurts receive travellers from spring to autumn. The best known lie north of Nurata, towards the western end of the lake, in a landscape of low dunes and saxaul where Kazakh herders have long grazed camels and sheep. A night here is the simplest way to experience the Kyzylkum, the red sands, without an expedition.

The yurt

The yurt is a round tent of felt over a folding wooden lattice and roof wheel, the dwelling of the steppe nomads for centuries. In the camps each yurt sleeps two to six people on mattresses and quilts laid on carpets; bathrooms and showers are in a separate block. It is comfortable rather than luxurious, and the felt keeps the inside cool in the day and warm at night.

An evening in the camp

Arrival is usually in the afternoon. A camel ride of half an hour to an hour leads into the dunes; later comes the sunset, either in the dunes or at the lake shore. Dinner is served in a large yurt or around the fire, often with an akyn, a Kazakh singer who accompanies himself on the two-stringed dombra. Away from any town lights, the night sky is extraordinary.

Practical notes

Camps usually operate from about March or April to late October or November. Nights can be cold even in May and September, so bring a warm layer. Breakfast is served early, and most travellers continue the next morning to Nurata and then Bukhara or Samarkand.