Yangykala Canyon

Yangykala lies in the Balkan region of western Turkmenistan, in the desert between the town of Balkanabat and the Garabogazköl, the great salt lagoon off the Caspian Sea. Here the edge of a plateau breaks into a maze of canyons several kilometres long, with walls that local sources put at up to about 100 metres high. The rock is layered sediment from the seas that covered this region millions of years ago, and each layer weathers to a different colour: rose, brick red, cream, white and grey-green. The name is usually translated as 'fire fortress', for the way the cliffs glow at sunset.

The landscape

There are no paths, buildings or fences. Viewpoints along the rim look down into amphitheatres and over buttes and spurs that seem to have been carved by hand, and the colours change hour by hour. Fossils of shells are easy to find in the rock, a reminder of its marine origin. The setting is utterly silent, and you may not meet another vehicle all day.

Combining it

Yangykala is usually reached on a journey to the Caspian coast. Many itineraries pair it with Gozli Ata, a Sufi pilgrimage site in a nearby desert hollow with the tomb of a 14th-century teacher, and spend a night camping or in a simple guesthouse before continuing to Balkanabat or the port city of Turkmenbashi.

How to experience it

The canyon is reachable only by four-wheel-drive vehicle with an experienced driver, and it is several hours off the asphalt, so it requires a dedicated day or an overnight. Aim to be on the rim for sunset and sunrise, when the colours are deepest. The edges are crumbly and unfenced; stay well back. Bring water, food and warm clothing for the night.