Mullah Kyrgyz Madrasah, Namangan

Namangan, the valley's second city, sees fewer visitors than Kokand or Margilan, and its best monument is a good reason to stop on the road from Tashkent. The Mullah Kyrgyz (Mullo Kirgiz) Madrasah was built in 1910–1912, making it one of the last large madrasahs raised in the Fergana Valley before the revolution. Its date is part of its interest: it shows the old craft traditions still at full strength on the eve of the Soviet period.

The name is told two ways. Some sources say it honours the scholar or patron who founded it; others that it carries the name of its master builder. The question is unresolved, and local guides will happily give you both versions.

The portal

The front of the building is its glory. The portal is faced with tile mosaic in blue, green, yellow and white, with geometric and floral panels and bands of inscription set in fired brick, and the tilework has been fully restored. Scholars of architectural epigraphy have deciphered the inscriptions, which include verses and the dates of construction. Behind the portal lies a courtyard of student cells laid out to fit an irregular plot, which gives the plan its unusual shape.

Visiting

The madrasah stands in the centre of Namangan and has been used as a museum and as a religious building; check with your guide whether the courtyard is open on the day. The exterior can be seen at any time. Allow about 30 minutes. It makes a natural lunch stop between the knife makers of Chust and the drive on to Fergana. Dress modestly and ask before photographing people.