Kolsai Lakes and Kaindy

The Kolsai lakes lie in the Kungey Alatau range about 300 km east of Almaty, close to the Kyrgyz border. They were formed by ancient landslides that dammed the Kolsai river, leaving three lakes one above the other in a gorge of Tian Shan spruce, juniper and alpine meadows. The area has been protected since 2007 as the Kolsai Lakes National Park, and the village of Saty below it is the usual base.

The three lakes

The first, or lower, lake lies at about 1,800 metres and is reached by road; it is about a kilometre long, with a lakeside path, boats and guesthouses nearby. The second lake, at around 2,250 metres and widely considered the most beautiful, is a walk of about 8 km through forest, three to four hours up for most people, or a horse ride. The third lake, at about 2,650 metres, lies a further steep climb above and is a full day's trek for fit walkers; beyond it a pass leads towards Issyk-Kul in Kyrgyzstan, but this is not an official border crossing.

Kaindy

Kaindy, about an hour's drive from Saty, is a lake created when the great earthquake of 1911 triggered a landslide that blocked a gorge and flooded a spruce forest. The bleached trunks still stand upright in the cold, clear water, their tops above the surface and their branches preserved below. The last stretch of road is rough and usually done in a four-wheel-drive vehicle, followed by a short, steep walk down to the shore.

How to experience it

The lakes can be combined with Charyn Canyon in one long day from Almaty, but a night in Saty makes it far more enjoyable and allows the walk to the second lake. Summer and early autumn are best; snow can close the higher trails from late autumn to spring. Pay the national park fee at the entrance, bring layers and rain gear, and start walks early.