Kyrgyzstan

Overview

Kyrgyzstan is the nomadic counterpoint to Uzbekistan's cities of domes and minarets. Around 90 per cent of the country is mountain, mostly the Tian Shan, and many Kyrgyz families still move their herds to high summer pastures, the jailoo, where they live in felt yurts from June to September. For travellers this means horse riding, lakes, alpine trekking and some of the most open hospitality in Central Asia, all within easy reach of the Uzbek Fergana valley and Tashkent. ## Regions worth knowing - The south: Osh, one of the oldest cities in Central Asia, with the UNESCO-listed Sulaiman-Too mountain and a huge bazaar; and the walnut forests of Arslanbob. - Bishkek and the Chui valley: the leafy capital, Ala-Archa National Park on its doorstep, and the 11th-century Burana tower near Tokmok. - Issyk-Kul: a vast, slightly salty lake at about 1,600 metres, with beaches on the north shore and canyons, eagle hunters and the hiking base of Karakol on the south and east. - The central highlands: Song-Kul lake at about 3,000 metres, ringed by yurt camps, and the stone caravanserai of Tash Rabat on the old road to Kashgar. ## Combining Kyrgyzstan with Uzbekistan The two countries share a long border around the Fergana valley, and the busiest crossing for visitors is Dostuk, between Andijan and Osh. A classic combination runs from Tashkent through Kokand, Margilan and Andijan, crosses at Dostuk and spends a day or two in Osh, with an optional night at Arslanbob. From Osh, domestic flights take under an hour to Bishkek, from where you can continue to Issyk-Kul and Song-Kul. In the north, Tashkent and Bishkek are linked by direct flights of about an hour and a quarter, and by road through Kazakhstan. Typical add-ons are 2–3 days in Osh and Arslanbob from the Fergana valley, 4–6 days for Bishkek, Issyk-Kul and Song-Kul, or a full Silk Road circuit continuing over the Torugart or Irkeshtam pass to Kashgar in China. ## Visas and entry Citizens of many countries, including most of Europe, the UK, the USA, Japan and others, have been able to visit Kyrgyzstan without a visa for up to 60 days; others can apply for an e-visa online. Rules change, so check current requirements for your passport before travel. Some border areas, such as the approaches to Torugart and certain parts of the Issyk-Kul and Naryn regions near China, need a border-zone permit, which TourEast arranges in advance. ## Getting around There is no useful passenger rail for visitors. Main roads between Bishkek, Issyk-Kul, Naryn and Osh are mostly paved; the road between Bishkek and Osh crosses two high passes and takes about 10–12 hours, so many travellers fly. Mountain tracks to Song-Kul and similar places need a 4x4 and are open only in summer. ## Safety, etiquette and money Kyrgyzstan is generally safe and welcoming. In yurts, remove your shoes, do not step on the threshold and accept at least a sip of kymyz, fermented mare's milk, if offered. Ask before photographing people, dress modestly at shrines and in southern towns, and expect bargaining at bazaars. The currency is the som (KGS). Cards are accepted in Bishkek and some Karakol and Osh hotels; elsewhere use cash, available from ATMs in larger towns. Kyrgyzstan is on UTC+6, one hour ahead of Uzbekistan and Tajikistan.