Arslanbob Walnut Forests

Arslanbob lies at about 1,600 metres on the southern slopes of the Babash-Ata range in the Jalal-Abad region, above the Kyrgyz side of the Fergana valley. Around and above the village spreads a forest of wild walnut trees mixed with apple, pear, plum, pistachio and cherry, among the largest natural walnut forests anywhere. Botanists see these forests as a living gene bank for fruit and nut trees, and for the villagers, most of them ethnic Uzbeks, they are a livelihood: every autumn whole families move into the woods to gather the nuts.

Legends

The village is named after Arslanbob-ata, a holy man whose shrine stands here. A popular legend says that the Prophet Muhammad asked a faithful follower to find the most beautiful place on earth; he found this valley but with no trees, and was given a bag of seeds to scatter over the slopes, from which the forest grew. Another story, also a legend, claims that Alexander the Great's soldiers carried walnuts from here back to Europe, which is why Russian still calls the walnut the 'Greek nut'.

What to do

• Walk to the big waterfall, about 80 metres high, a half-day hike with a steep final section and views over the forest.
• Visit the small waterfall near the village, beside a holy spring and a shrine area where pilgrims come to pray.
• Wander the forest paths between ancient walnut trees, some of them several centuries old, on foot or on horseback.
• Climb to viewpoints below the Babash-Ata cliffs, or take a longer trek to the high lakes.
• See walnut processing and stay with a family in a guesthouse arranged through the village's community-tourism network.

When to go

Late April and May bring blossom and green meadows; summer is pleasantly cooler than the hot valley below; September and October are walnut harvest, with golden leaves and the village at its busiest. Arslanbob is conservative and devout: dress modestly, especially near the shrine and the holy spring.

Getting there

From Osh it is about three and a half to four hours by car via Jalal-Abad and Bazar-Korgon. Travellers arriving from Uzbekistan via the Andijan–Osh (Dostuk) border can spend a night in Osh and continue here the next day, then return to Osh to fly to Bishkek, or drive north through the mountains towards Toktogul.