Song-Kul Lake and Yurt Camps

Song-Kul lies on a high plateau in the Naryn region of central Kyrgyzstan, at roughly 3,000 metres. The lake is about 29 kilometres long and shallow, ringed by grassy slopes rather than cliffs, so the horizon feels wide open. For most of the year it is cold and empty: ice covers the water from about November until May. In summer, however, the surrounding jailoo, the high pastures, fill with horses, sheep, cattle and yaks, and herding families move up from the valleys to live in felt yurts beside their flocks, as Kyrgyz nomads have done for centuries.

Life on the jailoo

Several families run simple yurt camps for visitors alongside their own homes. You sleep on layers of felt and quilts in a yurt warmed by a stove, eat home cooking such as fresh bread, soups and boiled meat, and drink tea with cream and butter. If offered, try kymyz, fermented mare's milk, the summer drink of the pastures; a sip is polite even if you do not finish the bowl. Days are for horse riding along the shore, walking up the surrounding ridges, watching the herds come in at dusk, and perhaps a felt-making demonstration or a game of kok-boru if a gathering is under way. With no light pollution, the night sky is extraordinary.

Getting there

The usual approach is from the village of Kochkor, about three hours from Bishkek, then over the Kalmak-Ashuu pass at about 3,400 metres, roughly three hours more on a dirt road. Alternative tracks climb from the south towards Naryn, including a road of tight hairpins popular with photographers. Experienced riders can arrive on horseback from Kyzart or Kochkor over one or two days. A 4x4 with a local driver is essential.

Practical notes

The yurt season runs roughly from early June to mid-September; snow is possible at any time. Nights are cold, often near freezing even in July, so bring warm clothing; facilities are basic, with outdoor toilets and limited washing water. Mobile coverage is patchy. One night is enough to feel the place; two allow a full day of riding. Song-Kul fits between Bishkek and Issyk-Kul or on the way south to Tash Rabat.