Lake Issyk-Kul

Issyk-Kul, 'warm lake' in Kyrgyz, fills a basin between the Kungey Ala-Too range to the north and the Terskey Ala-Too to the south, at about 1,600 metres above sea level. It is around 180 kilometres long and up to 60 wide, and more than 600 metres deep at its deepest, which makes it one of the largest and deepest mountain lakes in the world. Its water is slightly saline and, thanks to its depth and mild local climate, it does not freeze in winter. On clear days the snow peaks on the far shore seem to float over the water.

North shore

The northern shore is the holiday coast, with sandy beaches, sanatoria and guesthouses around Cholpon-Ata and Bosteri; in July and August it fills with visitors from Kyrgyzstan and Kazakhstan. Above Cholpon-Ata is an open-air field of boulders carved with petroglyphs, many showing ibex, deer and hunting scenes, dating mostly from the Bronze Age to the early centuries AD. The Rukh Ordo cultural centre by the lake presents the country's spiritual traditions.

South shore

The southern shore is quieter, more rural and more striking. Near Tosor and Kaji-Say the Skazka or 'Fairy Tale' canyon displays eroded red and ochre rock formations; around Bokonbaevo families keep up the tradition of hunting with golden eagles, and demonstrations can be arranged; yurt camps and felt-making workshops sit by the water. At the eastern end lies Karakol, the base for treks to Altyn-Arashan and Ala-Kul and for the red rocks of Jeti-Oguz.

Practical notes

From Bishkek it is about four hours to Cholpon-Ata and five to six to Karakol. A full loop of the lake takes two to four days with stops. Swimming season is July to early September, when the shallows warm up; the lake is beautiful but quiet in May, June and September. Issyk-Kul combines naturally with Song-Kul, reached from the western end via Kochkor.