Jeti-Oguz Red Rocks

Jeti-Oguz is a gorge on the southern side of Issyk-Kul, about 25 kilometres west of Karakol, where the Jeti-Oguz river emerges from the Terskey Ala-Too range. At its mouth stands a row of eroded red sandstone cliffs, the formation that gives the place its name: jeti oguz means 'seven bulls' in Kyrgyz. Against the green of the meadows and the dark spruce forest higher up, the colour is startling, especially in late-afternoon sun.

Legends in the rock

Two stories are told here, both legends. One says the seven cliffs are seven bulls turned to stone after a feud between rival rulers. The other belongs to a separate rock nearby, cleft down the middle and called the Broken Heart: it is said to be the heart of a young woman whose two suitors fought and died over her. Local guides tell these with relish, and the viewpoints above the road are named after them.

What to do

The road passes the cliffs and enters the gorge to the Jeti-Oguz resort, a sanatorium built in Soviet times around hot mineral springs, where you can bathe. From here a track and footpaths continue up the valley to Kok-Jayik, often called the Valley of Flowers, a wide meadow where herders pitch yurts in summer and wildflowers bloom in early summer. Short walks lead up the ridge behind the red rocks for a view over the formation, the gorge and, on clear days, Issyk-Kul. Horse riding can be arranged with families in the valley.

How to visit

Jeti-Oguz is a half-day trip from Karakol, or a stop on the drive along the south shore of Issyk-Kul. Come in the late afternoon for the warmest colours, and bring a layer: the gorge is cool even in summer. A night in a yurt in the upper valley is a good way to see it without crowds.