Kow Ata Underground Lake

Kow Ata, 'father of caves', lies in the foothills of the Kopet Dag near the town of Baharly (formerly Bakharden), roughly 100 km west of Ashgabat. A broad cave mouth opens in the hillside, and a stairway of a few hundred steps leads some 60 metres down into a high chamber with a lake at the bottom. The water, fed by thermal springs, stays at about 33–37 °C through the year and is rich in sulphur and other minerals, so the cave smells faintly of it.

The cave

The lake is long and narrow, stretching back into the dark beyond the reach of the lamps, and is said to be very deep in places. The rock walls are streaked with mineral deposits, and colonies of bats roost high in the vault. Turkmen families have long come here to bathe for their health, and the springs are traditionally credited with easing joint and skin complaints; treat such claims as folk belief.

How to experience it

Bring swimwear, a towel and sandals with grip, as the steps and the platforms at the water's edge can be slippery. There are changing cabins at the bottom. The warm water and humid air make the contrast with a cold winter day outside especially pleasant, and many people stay in for 20–30 minutes before climbing back up. People with heart or respiratory conditions should take advice before bathing in hot sulphurous water. Kow Ata pairs naturally with a visit to Nisa or an Akhal-Teke stud farm on the same day.