Tolkuchka Bazaar (Altyn Asyr)

For generations Tolkuchka, from a Russian word for a crush or jostle, was the open-air market where the people of the Akhal oasis came to trade carpets, camels, livestock and household goods in the sand outside Ashgabat. In 2011 it moved into a purpose-built complex north of the city, officially the Altyn Asyr ('Golden Age') Eastern Bazaar, a sprawling site of covered halls and stalls with a monumental entrance. Many locals still call it Tolkuchka, and it remains the best place in the country to see ordinary Turkmen life and to shop for traditional crafts.

What is sold

The carpet section is the main reason most visitors come. Turkmen carpets, deep red and patterned with the medallions called guls, each traditionally associated with a particular tribe, are among the finest hand-knotted rugs in the world, and you will see new pieces alongside older ones. Nearby are embroidered women's robes and headscarves, the tall shaggy sheepskin hats called telpek, felt, silver and carnelian jewellery in the Teke style, and camel-wool socks. Elsewhere the bazaar sells clothes, food, spices, household goods and car parts.

Buying a carpet

Bargaining is normal. Older carpets and many larger pieces need an export certificate from the state carpet authority, and exporting antique items without one is not allowed, so buy from sellers who can arrange the paperwork or ask your guide to help, and keep receipts for customs.

How to experience it

The market is busiest on weekend mornings, traditionally Sunday, and quieter on other days; confirm the current market days with your agency. Come early, carry manat in small notes, and ask before photographing traders, especially women.