Aral Sea Shore

The Aral Sea has lost most of its area since the 1960s, split into separate basins and retreated far from its old ports. The southern part that lies partly in Uzbekistan is now a long, shallow western basin under the cliffs of the Ustyurt plateau. Getting there is an expedition, and that is part of the appeal.

The journey

From Muynak, tracks lead across the dried seabed and up onto the Ustyurt, a vast limestone plateau of steppe and cliffs. On the way most trips stop at the Sudochye lakes, a wetland of reeds and open water that attracts migrating birds, and at viewpoints along the edge of the plateau. Expect around five hours with stops, much of it on rough, dusty tracks, in a 4x4 with an experienced local driver. There is no mobile signal for long stretches.

At the shore

Yurt camps stand on the plateau above the western shore, a short drive or walk from the water. The sea itself is wide and still, edged with salt crusts and sand, with the white cliffs of the Ustyurt behind. Its salinity is now several times that of the ocean, so you float easily. Camps offer simple meals and shared facilities; nights are cold even in summer, and the sky is very dark.

Why go

Few places show the scale of human impact on a landscape so directly, and few are as empty and quiet. The combination of the ship cemetery at Muynak, the empty seabed and the living, if diminished, sea makes a powerful two-day journey.

Practicalities

Go between May and early October; tracks can be impassable after rain, and winter is bitterly cold. Bring layers, a hat, sunscreen, water shoes and a towel for swimming, and something to rinse off the salt.