Dorut-Tilovat and Kok-Gumbaz Mosque, Shakhrisabz

Dorut-Tilovat, “the house of reflection”, is the spiritual heart of old Shakhrisabz. It grew up around the grave of Sheikh Shamsiddin Kulal, a Sufi master who was the spiritual guide of Timur’s father, Taragai. Its buildings span the reigns of Timur and his grandson Ulugbek, and they make a satisfying second stop after the Ak-Saray ruins.

Kok-Gumbaz Mosque

The largest building is the Kok-Gumbaz, the “blue dome”, Shakhrisabz’s Friday mosque. An inscription records that Ulugbek built it in 1435, in honour of his father Shahrukh. Its great portal faces the square, and the turquoise-tiled dome, rising on a tall drum, is visible across the town. Inside, the prayer hall is spacious and simply finished, with painted decoration. The mosque is active, so visit outside prayer times.

The mausoleum of Shamsiddin Kulal

Opposite the mosque stands the mausoleum of Shamsiddin Kulal, built in 1374 by Timur. By tradition Timur’s father Taragai is buried here too, which gives the building a special place in the Timurid story.

Gumbazi Sayyidon

Beside them is the Gumbazi Sayyidon, the “dome of the sayyids”, built under Ulugbek around 1437–38 as a family tomb for descendants of the Prophet. Its interior has fine painted decoration and carved stone grave markers.

Visiting

Dorut-Tilovat lies on the landscaped axis that runs through the historic centre of Shakhrisabz, a few minutes’ walk from Dorus-Saodat and about 15 minutes from Ak-Saray. Dress modestly for the mosque and mausoleums.