Bake bread in a tandir, cook plov with a chef after the Siab Bazaar, taste Samarkand wines and dine with an Uzbek family. Tashkent, Samarkand and Bukhara, each city a different course. The seventh plov is the one you make yourself.
Uzbek cooking is the food of a crossroads: Persian rice dishes, Turkic grilled meat, Chinese-style noodles and Russian habits, all cooked around the kazan and the clay tandir. This six-day journey follows it from the great bazaars of Tashkent and Samarkand to the kitchens and tea houses of Bukhara, with the main monuments seen along the way.
The programme is built around doing rather than watching. You shop at Siab Bazaar for a plov you then cook in a Samarkand courtyard, slap dough onto the wall of a tandir with a baker, and learn the sweets of Bukhara from the people who make them. Tastings cover dried fruit and nuts, halva, Samarkand wine at a historic winery and the kebab of Gijduvan, a market town between Samarkand and Bukhara that Uzbeks will drive an hour to eat in.
You travel on the Afrosiyob high-speed train and by private car, with a licensed guide in each city. The last evening is a home-hosted dinner with a Bukhara family, the best way to understand how Uzbek hospitality works at the table.
Tour Highlights
Guided tastings at Chorsu Bazaar in Tashkent and Siab Bazaar in Samarkand
Plov cooked with a local cook in a Samarkand courtyard kitchen, from bazaar to kazan
Bread baked in a clay tandir with a Samarkand baker
Wine tasting at a historic Samarkand winery and a Gijduvan kebab lunch
Bukhara sweets workshop and a home-hosted dinner with a Bukhara family
Arrival in Tashkent and a meeting at the airport. In the afternoon your guide takes you through Chorsu Bazaar to taste your way along the rows of bread, dried fruit, cheese and spices, followed by a welcome dinner of Uzbek classics.
Shurpa, lagman, shashlik and a first taste of plov
Meals: DinnerHotel in Tashkent
A morning high-speed train to Samarkand and the city's great monuments, then an afternoon with a baker learning the round Samarkand non that Uzbeks carry home in their suitcases.
06:45Transfer to Tashkent North (Tashkent Central) station
07:30Afrosiyob train to Samarkand (about 2 h 15 min, arrival 09:43)
Train times change by season; we confirm them when you book
10:00Meeting with the guide at the station; sightseeing (2.5 hours)
Kneading, stamping the pattern with a chekich, baking on the oven wall, and tea with the bread still warm
Evening free
Optional: the Registan lit up at night
Meals: Breakfast, lunchHotel in Samarkand
You shop at Siab Bazaar with your cook for the ingredients of plov, then cook it together in a courtyard kitchen and eat it for lunch. The afternoon brings Shah-i-Zinda and a tasting at one of the oldest wineries in Central Asia.
09:00Siab Bazaar with your cook (1 hour)
Rice, yellow carrots, cumin, barberries and meat chosen for the plov
Dried fruit and nut tasting
The halva and sweets rows
Siab Bazaar is closed on Mondays; on a Monday we shop at another market
10:30Plov cooking class in a courtyard kitchen (2.5 hours)
The kazan over an open fire, the order of meat, onions, carrots and rice, and lunch of the plov you cooked
14:30Rest at the hotel
16:00Shah-i-Zinda necropolis (1 hour)
The avenue of blue-tiled mausoleums
17:30Wine tasting at a historic Samarkand winery (1 hour)
Dry and dessert wines and brandies, with dried fruit
Meals: Breakfast, lunchHotel in Samarkand
A day on the road west by private car, about four and a half hours of driving in total. You stop at the Rabat-i-Malik caravanserai, eat the famous kebab of Gijduvan, see its potters at work and reach Bukhara in time for an evening stroll.
08:30Drive to the Rabat-i-Malik caravanserai near Navoi (about 2.5 hours)
11:00Rabat-i-Malik caravanserai and its sardoba water cistern (30 min)
11:30Drive on to Gijduvan (about 1 hour)
12:30Lunch of Gijduvan kebab
Minced lamb on skewers over charcoal, with onions, tomatoes and tandir bread
A walking day through old Bukhara with food in mind: spices, bread and green tea between the trading domes and the Kalyan Minaret. In the afternoon you make Bukhara sweets with a local master, and in the evening a family welcomes you to dinner at home.
Poi-Kalyan: Kalyan Minaret, Kalyan Mosque and Mir-i-Arab Madrasah
The Ark Fortress
A stop at a bakery and a tea house on the way
The museums inside the Ark are reported to close on Wednesdays; on that day the Bolo-Hauz Mosque and the Samanid Mausoleum take its place
12:30Lunch break (at own expense)
15:00Bukhara sweets workshop (1.5 hours)
Halva and other sweets made the old way, served with green tea
19:00Home-hosted dinner with a Bukhara family
A full dastarkhan: salads, soup, a main course, fruit and sweets
Meals: Breakfast, dinnerHotel in Bukhara
A free morning in Bukhara, then the afternoon Afrosiyob train back to Tashkent, arriving in the evening for a late flight home. If you fly out of Bukhara instead, we arrange the airport transfer.
Free morning; check-out by 12:00
Luggage can wait at the hotel
14:15Transfer to Bukhara-1 station in Kagan (25 min)
15:09Afrosiyob train to Tashkent (about 4 h 10 min)
Train times change by season; we confirm them when you book
19:17Arrival at Tashkent North and transfer to the airport
Book an onward flight leaving after about 22:30, or add a night in Tashkent