Seven Lakes (Haft Kul / Marguzor)

Haft Kul, 'seven lakes' in Tajik, is a staircase of lakes in the narrow Shing valley on the western edge of the Fann Mountains, south of Penjikent. The lakes were formed by ancient landslides and rockfalls that dammed the river at several points, and they climb from about 1,600 metres at the lowest to around 2,400 metres at the highest. Because each lies at a different depth and receives different minerals and light, their colours vary from milky turquoise to emerald and deep blue, and change through the day.

The lakes, from bottom to top

• Mijgon ('eyelash'), the first and smallest.
• Soya ('shadow'), in the shade of the valley walls.
• Gushor, a longer lake with a village above it.
• Nofin ('navel'), with homestays nearby and a classic viewpoint.
• Khurdak ('small').
• Marguzor, the largest and best known, which gives its name to the whole chain in many guides; the road ends near here.
• Hazorchashma ('thousand springs'), the highest, reached on foot through juniper and pasture.

Local storytelling explains the chain with a legend of seven daughters, or seven sisters, waiting in vain for a beloved who never returned and turning into lakes; versions vary from village to village and should be enjoyed as folklore.

Experiencing the lakes

The road from Penjikent runs south to the village of Shing and then climbs the valley past the lakes, rough and narrow in places. A day trip by 4x4 lets you stop at each lake and walk short stretches along the shore. Better still, stay a night in a village homestay, where you can walk from lake to lake in the morning light, continue on foot to Hazorchashma, and share dinner with a Tajik family. The villages are traditional and conservative: dress modestly and ask before taking photographs of people.

Combining with Samarkand

The Seven Lakes are the easiest high-mountain experience in reach of Samarkand: cross the Jartepa–Sarazm border early, visit ancient Penjikent, then drive to the lakes in the afternoon and stay overnight, returning to Samarkand the next evening. With an extra day you can go on to Iskanderkul.