Siab Bazaar

Siab (Siyob in Uzbek) is the market Samarkand actually shops at. It sits directly behind the Bibi-Khanym Mosque, so a visit fits naturally between the monuments, and it gives you the clearest sense of the city’s daily life. The name comes from the Siab stream that flows below the Afrasiab hill nearby. Traders have gathered in this part of the old city for centuries; the present covered halls and rows are modern.

What to look for

• Samarkand non. The city’s round, heavy, glazed bread is famous across Uzbekistan, and many locals insist it tastes right only when baked in Samarkand. Bread sellers stack it in tall piles; buy one warm.
• Dried fruit and nuts. Apricots in several grades, raisins of every colour, almonds, walnuts, roasted apricot kernels and pistachios. Tasting before buying is normal.
• Sweets. Navat (crystallised sugar), parvarda, and decorated halva, including the elaborate pieces made for weddings.
• Fresh produce. In summer and autumn, the melon rows are the highlight: Uzbekistan grows dozens of varieties. Spring brings strawberries and cherries; autumn, pomegranates and persimmons.
• Spices, herbs and dairy. Cumin, dried barberries, saffron of varying quality, and qurut, the salted dried yoghurt balls.

How to shop

Prices are rarely posted for visitors and gentle bargaining is expected, though less so for bread and everyday food. Have small banknotes ready. Ask before photographing traders; most are happy to be photographed, especially if you buy something. Spice and saffron quality varies widely, so it is worth having a guide alongside if you are buying in quantity.

When to come

Mornings are the busiest and most colourful time, when restaurants and households do their shopping; Sunday is the liveliest day. The bazaar is closed on Mondays for cleaning.