Hazrat Khizr Mosque

On the hill between Siab Bazaar and the Afrasiab plateau stands a mosque dedicated to Khizr, the mysterious green-clad wanderer of Islamic tradition, patron of travellers and guide of those who have lost their way. Local tradition holds that one of the first mosques in Samarkand was built here soon after the Arab conquest in the eighth century, on the site of an older temple, and that it was destroyed by the Mongols in 1220.

The building

The mosque you see dates largely from 1854, with the portal and the slender minaret added around the turn of the twentieth century. It is a classic Central Asian neighbourhood mosque: a domed winter prayer hall, and a summer prayer hall open to the air under a deep porch (aivan) carried on carved wooden columns. The real treasure is the painted decoration of the aivan ceiling and walls, in deep reds, greens and gold. It was restored in the 1990s.

The view

The terrace in front of the mosque looks out over Bibi-Khanym, Siab Bazaar and the rooftops of the old city towards the Registan. It is one of the best panoramas in Samarkand, especially in the late afternoon.

The Karimov mausoleum

Islam Karimov, the first president of independent Uzbekistan, who was born in Samarkand, was buried near the mosque in 2016, and a memorial complex has been built around his grave. Many Uzbek visitors come to pay their respects there, so the hill is busy on public holidays.

Visiting

The mosque is active, so avoid prayer times and dress modestly. It is reached by steps from Tashkent Street opposite Siab Bazaar, and fits easily between the bazaar and Shah-i-Zinda.