Bahauddin Naqshband Memorial Complex

Bahauddin Naqshband was born in 1318 in the village of Qasr-i Hinduvan, a short ride east of Bukhara, and died there in 1389. The Sufi path he taught, the Naqshbandiya, became one of the most widespread orders in the Islamic world, from the Ottoman lands to India and Indonesia. The village was renamed Qasr-i Arifan, "castle of the knowers", in his honour, and his grave has drawn pilgrims ever since. For many in Central Asia it is the last and most important of the Seven Pirs, the seven Sufi masters whose shrines lie around Bukhara.

The complex

The present ensemble grew from the 16th century onwards. In 1544 the Shaybanid khan Abdulaziz raised a khanaka, a lodge for Sufi gatherings, whose tall portal still dominates the main courtyard. The saint's grave lies in an open enclosure of carved stone rather than under a dome, in keeping with his simplicity. Around them are mosques with painted porches, a small minaret, a pool, and the Dakhmai Shokhon, a burial ground of later rulers. Pilgrims circle the grave, touch an old mulberry tree said to have grown from the saint's staff, and sit in prayer in the courtyards. The site was extensively renovated after Uzbekistan's independence.

Visiting respectfully

This is an active place of devotion, and many visitors are pilgrims. Dress modestly: shoulders and knees covered for everyone, and a headscarf for women. Speak quietly, ask before photographing people at prayer, and follow the flow of pilgrims around the grave. Thursdays, Fridays and religious holidays are especially busy.

How to experience it

The drive from the old town takes about 20–25 minutes. Combine the visit with the emir's summer palace for a half day, or make it part of a full Seven Pirs pilgrimage. Allow at least an hour so that you are not rushed.